My grouping is MUCH MUCH better since I did this. The P22 is so light that any tiny amount of overtravel by the trigger will throw off point of aim. I put mine right at the very bottom, in the frame of the gun and not on the trigger itself. You want to scale back three of the four corners on the face so that it ejects sharply to the side, instead of back into your face.
Just polish and slightly chamfer the edge.Ģ. Its got a sharp edge on lots of guns, which impacts feeding. Take a dremel with a tapered stone and just "touch" the edges of the back of the chamber. It holds the slide stop DOWN, not up, and without it, recoil can lock the slide.ġ. I'd caution against removing the slide stop spring. It worked for me, and I hope it's of help to you. I can't remember the last time I had an FTE, but I had them all the time before doing this. I get much more reliable extraction with this mod. Exceeding the elastic limit of the spring does weaken it in theory, but I haven't noticed any ill effects yet. Gently stretch the extractor spring with some pliers. Push out (mine is just held in place by the tension of the extractor spring) the pin holding in the extractor. In the hundreds of rounds I have shot since then, the mag spring has been plenty strong enough to lock the slide back. This kept slipping out from under the slide stop and making the last-round-hold-open nonfunctional. I removed part #23, and the gun actually works like a normal handgun. You may need to unscrew the two halves (sideplates) of the action to do some things. Take off the slide, pound out the 2 roll pins holding the action in the plastic lower.
My problems may have not been your problems, but this is what worked for me. It now runs very close to 100%, and here's what I did. Those with limp wrists had even more trouble. I couldn't even get through a mag without jamming. Granted, I paid less than $250 for this pistol, but I was hoping to have a reliable platform for suppression.
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